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Pho - The Soul Food of Hanoi

As life progresses and human standards elevate, surpassing the narrow confines of "eating to live" to achieve "eating well and dressing nicely," culinary experiences are no longer merely material values. Food carries distinctive values for the culture of a region, a nation, or an ethnicity.

Hanoi, a land rich in history and culture with over a millennium of civilization, has long been renowned for its prestigious delicacies passed down through generations. The cuisine of Hanoi, much like its people, exudes elegance, sophistication, and refinement. Each dish reflects the subtlety, skill, and artistry of its creators. When mentioning Hanoi, the first dish that cannot be overlooked is the fragrant bowl of pho.

First, let's understand the definition of "Pho." There are many interpretations of Pho, such as: "Pho - a national dish. Consists of small, flat rice noodles and meat, served in broth or stir-fried with scallions and fat: pho shop. A bowl of rare beef pho." (According to the Vietnamese Dictionary, Nguyen Kim Thanh - Ho Hai Thuy - Nguyen Duc Duong, Saigon Culture Publishing House, 2005, p. 942). Or from the "Vietnam Dictionary," compiled by the Progressive Literary Association, Thien Duc Branch, Mac Lam Publishing House, 1931, p. 443, which states, "Derived from the word 'phấn' (flour). A dish made of small-cut rice noodles cooked with beef: Stir-fried pho, rare beef pho."

The birth date of pho is not officially recorded, which is quite natural. Veteran writer Nguyen Cong Hoan (1903-1977) provided a fairly accurate age of over 100 years for this unique dish. He noted: "1913... alley no. 8 Hang Hai... occasionally had pho (pho vendors). Each bowl cost 2 cents, some cost 3 or 5 cents." Or in the book "Vietnamese Culture & Tourism," p. 261 by Tran Manh Thuong, it's written: "According to Vietnamese culinary researchers, pho has existed for over 100 years. However, there are many types of pho. According to incomplete statistics across Vietnam, there are over 17 types of pho."

When it comes to the origin of Pho, it's often believed to have taken shape in the early 20th century. Regarding its first appearance in Vietnam, there are two different perspectives: Nam Dinh and Hanoi. As for the origin of the dish, some believe that pho originated from a Cantonese dish called "ngau yuk phan" (Hán-Việt: "ngưu nhục phấn"). Others argue that pho originated from a Vietnamese dish called "xao trau" (made with vermicelli noodles), which later evolved into "xao bo" (beef stir-fry) served with rolled rice cakes. Another hypothesis suggests that pho originated from the French pot-au-feu cooking method combined with Vietnamese spices and herbs.

Through folklore, there are different interpretations of the name "pho." For instance, Pho is said to be the name of the first pho vendor in Hanoi. This person named Pho initially sold pho with crab vermicelli soup in Hanoi before transitioning to beef pho:

"At first, poor people from Nam Dinh, Ha Dong (former name) migrated to Hanoi, earning a living by selling crab vermicelli soup along the streets. Wherever there were customers, they stopped to sell. Gradually, after wandering around, they chose a place with many customers to sit on the sidewalk and set up small wooden stools for customers to sit and eat like at home.
At that time, there was a middle-aged man of small stature, with dark skin, named Pho. His wife fell ill, so Mr. Pho took over the selling of vermicelli. He saw that the vermicelli sold at the market was very delicious. He observed how they sold it and forgot to sell his goods. In return, he learned how to make vermicelli. Mr. Pho decided to buy some uncooked vermicelli without stuffing and cut them into small strands for his wife to sell. Unexpectedly, the uncooked vermicelli with crab vermicelli soup attracted many customers.
People found this dish both strange and not as sour as vermicelli. From then on, the people of Hanoi had a new dish called Mr. Pho's vermicelli. Gradually, it was called Northern pho, crab vermicelli, then beef pho, fully cooked beef pho, and freshly cooked beef pho… And from pho vendors, it became established pho shops as today." (According to Duong Duy Ngu, in "Pho Ha Noi" - Saigon Liberation Saturday)

While there are many hypotheses about the deep-rooted origin of pho, one thing is certain: Pho originated from Northern Vietnam. Later, this dish made its way to the Central and Southern regions in the 1950s, following France's failure in Indochina and the division of Vietnam into two regions. Vietnamese people from the north migrated to the south in 1954, bringing pho with them, and pho began to undergo new and innovative variations.

Why is Pho considered the soul food of Hanoi?
Have you ever wondered why it's pho and not bun cha that represents the culinary essence of this land with a "thousand years of culture"? Hanoi boasts dozens, if not hundreds, of delicious dishes, from grilled pork with rice vermicelli to Thanh Tri steamed rice rolls served with cinnamon pork sausage and dipping sauce, which are both exquisite. However, nothing compares to pho, the quintessential essence of Vietnamese cuisine, combining bone broth, meat, fragrant onions, herbs, spices, and soft, elastic rice noodles, characteristic of the rice civilization. It's a masterpiece of Vietnamese cuisine. Therefore, there's nothing more wonderful than "hovering around the shop door," confidently saying: "Give me a bowl, well-cooked, with plenty of noodles, not too fatty, and lots of onions, sir." And receiving a warm response: "A well-done beef, two rare slices, a tendon without onions next to the pole."

Then, take a deep breath and inhale the characteristic atmosphere of the pho shop drifting with the smoke: the strong aroma of Eastern spices from grilled ginger, cinnamon, and coriander; the savory smell of beef and beef bones stewing. Then, admire yourself in the steaming bowl of pho just served: here's the bright white, there's the deep brown, here's the pale green, there's the vibrant red; it encapsulates the soul of mountains and rivers... for a hundred years.

Moreover, pho is a dish for the masses, suitable for any time of day and all ages. The remarkable versatility of pho is that it tastes delicious regardless of the season or weather, and it's especially rich in nutrients, suitable for the refined tastes of Hanoians.

Pho reaches its pinnacle when it embodies four elements: aromatic sophistication (savoring the aroma), taste sophistication (appreciating the taste), visual sophistication (admiring it with the eyes), and spiritual sophistication (emotional satisfaction when enjoying it). As mentioned in "Vietnamese Cuisine Culture," a book by Nguyen Thi Bay and Tran Quoc Vuong, "I must say that the Vietnamese people of the Orient not only enjoy a flavor with a single sense. As mentioned, they enjoy it with their lips, mouth, tongue (sensation), and with their nose (smelling and inhaling), such as smelling the 'scent of pho' before eating pho, Hanoi people also enjoy food with their ears (hearing) like the early morning or twilight gift announcements (which have been recorded by many musicians since before 1945), or the sound of two wooden sticks knocking at the shop door."

The pho shops in Hanoi still maintain the habit of rarely providing menus to customers. Instead, customers must choose the type of pho they want (e.g., beef pho, chicken pho...). Pho is served in large bowls or plates. Usually, the tables are numbered for service, with chopsticks, spoons, and accompanying condiments such as sauce, vinegar, lime, fish sauce, and chili readily available.

Writer Thach Lam once wrote in his book "Hanoi's Sixteen Streets": "Good pho must be classic pho, made with beef, with clear and sweet broth, chewy but not mushy noodles, and crispy beef fat. Lime and chili with onions are a must, fresh herbs, Northern pepper, a sharp lime drop, plus a little bit of cà cuống (a unique aroma)."

According to many "pho experts," the authentic Hanoi culinary standard dictates that lime pairs only with chicken pho, while beef pho should be enjoyed with vinegar. Lime's acidity is stronger than vinegar, which enhances the aroma of chicken pho but completely destroys the broth's flavor of beef pho. If you accept lime with beef pho, it means you are lenient in your culinary preferences.

To enjoy a proper bowl of pho, it must be eaten hot; the hotter, the better.

Thirty minutes before eating pho, avoid eating sweet desserts, chocolates, or sucking on candy... only indulge in those after eating pho. The lingering taste of sugar in your mouth will diminish the original flavor of pho.

Delicious food isn't just about fresh ingredients and intricate preparation; it requires the diner to understand and consume it correctly to fully appreciate its delicate flavors. There's no exaggeration in saying that dining is also an art.